Tidings Magazine

“It is impossible to understand plant life without taking into account the fact that everything on earth is actually only a reflection of what is taking place in the cosmos.” — Rudolf Steiner, the “father” of biodynamic agriculture

If what is going on in Oregon is any indication, the “next big thing” in wine will be about giving back to the vineyard as much as we take from it. I went to Oregon to learn about three different “environmentally friendly” winemaking practices: sustainable, organic and biodynamic viticultures. And although they differ in philosophy and methodology, all three share the same aim: preserving the life of the vineyard in the most natural way possible, firmly rooting the notion of “give and take” in the winemaking equation.

September 12, 2:40 p.m.,Portland, Oregon,Hotel Vintage Plaza: It’s sunny and warm here in downtown Portland and my suite in this cool hotel is just what the doctor ordered. A two-floor, two-bath, two-entrance number complete with whirlpool and a mini-bar stocked with goodies. The Toronto–Denver–Portland flights were uneventful, but I’ve been up since 4 a.m. (Toronto time), so I’m feeling a bit bagged. Hang on, somebody’s knocking on my door … Neat! Room service delivers a bottle of 2002 Oregon Pinot Noir, a corkscrew and a box of chocolate truffles. I think I’ll go for a stroll to avoid temptation!

5 p.m.: Portland’s a funky little city. I find a shop the sells wine and cigars, even encouraging you to buy a bottle and enjoy it with a cigar in their lounge. Toto, we’re not in Toronto anymore! I have a dinner at 6:30 p.m.so I better get spruced up. I boldly try the Pinot Noir. #$#@%!! It’s corked! Perfect.

September 13, 7 a.m.: So much for sleeping in. It’s a bit cooler today with rain apparently on the way. Free coffee downstairs and a show about cannibalism on the TV: breakfast of champions! We’re due to travel south down the Willamette Valley through Dundee and on to the town of McMinnville. From there, we are going to hop on a — get this — private jet (owned by Evergreen International Aviation) to fly out to Walla Walla.

5 p.m., Walla Walla, Washington, Marcus Whitman Hotel and Conference Centre: What would normally have been a four-hour drive from Portland to Walla Walla was a very comfortable 40 minutes by jet instead as we sipped Evergreen Vineyard Pinot Gris and admired the undulating terrain below. Oenologically speaking, Oregon and Washington don’t have much in common. Oregon is mostly the land of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris whereas Washington is more of a “ferment it and let’s see what we get” kinda place. However, the two states do have Walla Walla, the region that straddles southern Washington and northern Oregon. The theme for this trip is “Growing Green”; as I am about to see for myself, winemakers in both these states are actively involved in sustainable, organic and biodynamic vineyard practices.

September 14, 8:30 a.m., Cayuse Vineyards: On the agenda today is “Sustainability.” We are greeted by Christophe Baron, Cayuse’s vigneron. Hailing from the Marne Valley in Champagne, Baron worked for Washington’s Waterbrook Winery and for Adelsheim Vineyard in Oregon before establishing his own vineyard here in 1997. If you didn’t know better, you might swear that you were in France: Cayuse’s vineyards (planted mostly with Syrah, some Viognier and a smattering of Grenache, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot) look like those in Châteauneuf-du-Pape given the fist-sized, smooth stones covering the ground.

Baron practices biodynamic viticulture, a regime that elicits reverence from believers and much eye-rolling from skeptics. It is the most radical form of “growing green.” “Biodynamics is a long-term proposition,” Baron explains to me. “It takes time to slow down.” The practice, which seems to strike a delicate balance between logic and witchcraft, is based on ancestral farming methods and aims to make the vineyard a completely self-sustaining “hands off” proposition. It takes into account the phases of the moon as well as the four elements of the zodiac calendar (earth, water, air and fire), each of which can be linked to an aspect of the vine (roots, leaves, flowers and fruit, respectively). Agrochemicals and fertilizers are strictly forbidden. Instead, liquefied plant extracts are used for composting purposes and cow manure that’s been buried inside a hollowed cow horn over the course of the winter is used as field spray (I’m definitely doing the whole process a disservice by reducing it to this here — but that’s why we have the Internet).

I’m inclined to mutter “gimme a break” until I taste Baron’s wines. His 2005 Syrah and Syrah Cailloux are big, strapping, meaty numbers reminiscent of those found in the northern Rhône. The 2003 Syrah is inky, smoky, powerful and chunky while the top-of-the-line 2003 Bionic Frog Syrah shows a smoky/gamy nose with hints of violet and plum and a powerful, chewy palate. “Bionic Frog” is Baron’s nickname (don’t ask).