Tidings Magazine

For most foodies, a pilgrimage to experience the culinary mastery of chef Thomas Keller at Napa’s French Laundry is an at-least-once-in-a-lifetime necessity. But for many, at a minimum of $300 per head, once is about all they can afford. But while the French Laundry may be the penultimate in fine dining, not having the opportunity to dine there doesn’t have to diminish your ability to experience all that Napa’s culinary scene has to offer. In fact, the region offers a multitude of flavours, cuisines and styles united by a common theme of fresh ingredients.

First stop, perhaps inspired by my Kansas City barbecue foray, was BarBerQ in the town of Napa. Located in a shopping plaza, the restaurant has an open-air feel as the large doors open wide onto a patio overlooking the parking lot. Unlike most of the BBQ joints in KC, BarBerQ has much more of an upper-middle-class, suburban feel to it. Not quite the character or traditional barbecue of an Arthur Bryant’s or Snead’s, but some pretty fine California-style BBQ nonetheless.

The special of the day was a brisket sandwich ($13.50), which proved to be worthy of any true barbecue afficionado’s palate. The meat was succulent and tender, topped with wonderfully crispy fried onions and served with crunchy and refreshing, fresh-made coleslaw. The CK Sonoma Mini Lamb Burgers ($12.95) were served two to a plate and were a tasty two and a half bites each. Leave it to the Californians to come up with an upscale slider (for those readers who have never eaten multiple little burgers, aka “sliders,” at a White Castle at 2 a.m. after a night of excess — I don’t recommend it unless you’re in your twenties, when your body can still metabolize them).

The cornbread ($3.50) was moist and flavourful with the perfect corn texture, and the collard greens ($4.95) would have satisfied any southerner. I’d love to go back to try the whole roasted vinegar chicken, pulled-pork sandwich and the chipotle-braised short ribs. If you’re looking for “authentic” barbecue, this may not be your thing. But if you’re looking for great flavours with the spirit of true barbecue, BarBerQ will be sure to satisfy.

An interesting concept implemented by owner Kelly Sherman is the “Wine List To Go.” For take-out orders only, you can purchase any bottle of wine “to go” for a fraction of the price on the regular wine list. Feeling like a nice bubbly with your grilled West Coast oysters? Then take home a bottle of Roederer Estate Brut for $23.40 ($39 on the eat-in wine list). Or how about a nice Zin with your braised short ribs? Frog’s Leap will run you $49 in the restaurant, but take it home for only $29.40. As far as Sherman knows, BarBerQ is the only restaurant in Napa currently using a Wine List To Go. Let’s all raise a baby back rib to Sherman for introducing this wine-friendly concept.

The next stop may seem somewhat touristy, but it really is a must for foodies. Just north of St. Helena, the Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant in the Culinary Institute of America allows you to sample the creations of both culinary professionals and students. Located in the former Christian Brothers winery, the massive stone-walled building, completed in 1889, serves as a rustic, historical setting for the culinary school and restaurant.

And what a great buzz the dining room has with its open kitchen allowing everyone to watch the performance. We started with the temptations of the day ($9.95 per person) and were treated to a selection of tasty bite-size morsels including celery-root soup; salmon tartare; goat cheese, watercress and walnuts on an endive leaf; pork terrine on brioche; and foie gras topped with an apple relish. All were well executed with a myriad of flavours keeping our palates quite happy, but also anticipating the next bite.