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Swartland: The New Rhône Ranger

The excitement is by no means confined to new cool climate stars. Great strides are being made with Rhône varieties in the typically Mediterranean conditions of the Cape. There is a growing awareness that these may be the more promising varieties for the future, supplanting the Bordeaux model of the past. Look for South African Shiraz/Syrah to challenge the predominance of Australia with this grape. The wines show the distinct expression of South African conditions but generally bear a stronger resemblance to the Rhône style than to the lushly fruity style more common in Australia. Some of the most impressive are coming from Swartland, once known only for producing nondescript bulk wines. Another small band of passionate winemakers is gaining recognition for dynamic Rhône-inspired blends in this semi-arid region. Not only Syrah, but Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault all show terrific promise here.

A leading Swartland guru is the unassuming purist Eben Sadie (Sadie Family Vineyards), who is equally at home in Spain’s vanguard Priorat region. A firm believer in the Swartland terroir, Sadie believes “the only way to truly produce great wines is to remove yourself and your ideals from the process of vinification and give the vineyards the true potential to become their own.”

Other standouts producers include The Observatory (fabulous, and fabulously expensive), Columella (managed by Eben Sadie), Fairview Jakkalsfontein (from nearby Paerdeberg), Sequillo and Skali (great Syrah).

Planting on the Edge

There is another side to Swartland’s thrilling potential. In the Swartland mountains and in nearby Cederberg, vines planted as high as 1,000 metres above sea level are delivering wines of great delicacy and finesse. David Nieuwoudt, of Cederberg Private Cellar, is among the leaders, together with yet another collaboration involving the ubiquitous Bruce Jack. Bruce has teamed up with Graham Knox to make exciting wines from Swartsberg mountain vineyard. Their aptly named “Frostline” range includes the remarkable 2005 Frostline Riesling, which shows some Aussie style ripeness combined with racy Riesling mineral, lime and petrol notes. Cederberg’s 2005 Sauvignon, from the Oliphant’s River region matches remarkably crisp natural acidity with amazingly fine fruit and mouth-filling body.

Other out-of-the-way regions are also making their mark. The most prominent is Robertson Valley, but Tulbagh, Oliphant’s River and the Little Karoo are all making wines to look out for. It whets my palate just to think of it.

South African Wines from Lesser-Known Regions

90 Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Groenenkloof ($16.95)

(West Coast, near Darling) Piquant gooseberry, mineral and herbal bouquet and a mouthful of luscious clean fresh green fruit, taut acidity. Aromatic tropical notes on the finish.

91 Flagstone Vineyards The Berrio Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Elim ($18)

Grown by Francis Pratt, the 2006 shows aromatic yet subtle green fruit, flinty mineral, fresh herbal and elusive floral scents ushering in fresh fruit with some seductive tropical overtones on the palate. Lively but well-behaved acidity craves oysters on the half shell.

89 Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale Chardonnay, Walker Bay ($24.95)

Burgundian elegance with opulent classic fruit, unobtrusive acidity, subtle buttery notes and discreet oak.

89 Joubert-Tradauw 62 Unplugged 2002, Klein Karoo ($16.95)

Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend displays earthy plum and minty herbal, eucalyptus on the nose and rich dark fruit compote on the palate. Big dark fruit, fig, dry spice and oaky complexity. A muscular, powerful wine.

90 Joubert-Tradauw Syrah 2003, Klein Karoo ($16.95)

Rhône and Pay d’Oc on the nose. All beef consommé, leather, dry spice and earthiness. Attractive raspberry and dark berry fruit, firm tannins. Dark fruitiness and supportive oak meld harmoniously. Rhône-like, but with engaging fruity ripeness. I wish I had a case of it!

89 Capaia Wines Blue Grove Hill Red Blend 2004, Philadelphia ($15.95)

Made close to Durbanville, this Cabernet Sauvignon/Cab Franc blend shows breed, with earthy plum, redcurrant and a dusting of clove on the nose. Deep fruit, firm, agreeable tannins, well-structured and understated oak.

89 Beaumont Pinotage 2003, Walker Bay ($22.95)

This cool climate version has more refinement than most Pinotage, showing cleaner fruit, less pungent earthiness and some complexity on the finish. Worth trying.