Wine Reviews

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Kick-started by an English ex-pat whose 1867 saloon sparked a city-sized development, Vancouver was founded on the idea of a good drink. But since the days of Gassy Jack Deighton — that fella on the whisky barrel plinth in historic Gastown — the bar scene here has lurched around like a drunk on payday: plenty of quantity but not enough quality. Luckily, recent years have seen a toast-triggering transformation.

Mirroring a renaissance in BC wine and micro-brewed beer, Vancouver suddenly has enough great watering holes to make bar crawling a worthy pastime. From new character taverns like Six Acres to gastropubs like Three Lions and cocktail-hugging haunts like Habit Lounge, there’s never been a better time for a citywide tipple or three. And the best of the older bars still cut it too: the brassy Yale, the den-like Brickhouse and the reinvented Irish Heather easily hold their own among the upstarts.

Intrigued by this dizzying resurgence, I launched an exhaustive weave around the city’s freshly hot bar scene. But rather than stopping after a few brews, I kept on going … hence the new book, Drinking Vancouver: 100+ Great Bars in the City and Beyond. Now that I’ve finally sobered up, here’s a six-pack of some of my favourites, complete with libation tips and raves from their regulars.

The Chilean wine industry is at a defining point in its evolution. Historically, Chile’s place in the wine world has largely been identified as a producer of inexpensive wine. This label served it well when first entering new markets in the 1990s, but producers have discovered recently that there is little consumer loyalty (or profitability) at the seven-to-nine-dollar price point. Australia, and now Argentina, have both eroded Chile’s market share for entry level wines, and, in general, the wines from these countries are more approachable and consumer friendly.

For years, Chilean producers ignored their greatest asset ... the country’s geography. It is only in the past 10 to 15 years that producers have started to identify the country’s diversity of soils and microclimates. And as vineyard managers and winemakers improved techniques and gained a better understanding of what grapes grow best in what areas, the quality of the resulting wines improved dramatically.

Every year I keep my fingers crossed and predict that the ‘Next Big Thing’ will be sherry. And every year you prove me wrong. I’m not blaming you personally but I can tell that wine-istas in North America are ignoring one of the world’s best beverages.

What would it take to shine the spotlight on sherry? My friend Barry Brown, founder and president of the Spanish Wine Society in Toronto, suggested an answer. In the next James Bond movie, have 007 ask for a Fino sherry rather than a vodka martini — chilled not iced. If only James Bond were to speak these words, the folks in Jerez would be laughing all the way to the bank. But it won’t happen. The problem is that sherry is not only one of the world’s greatest wines but it’s also the world’s most complicated drink.

Looking for something fun, relaxing and educational to do this fall? How about a trip to Vancouver? Take in the sights, smells and tastes of this beautiful city while enjoying some of the finest Canadian wine. Marquis Wine Cellars has organized two rare tasting and dining events giving you exclusive access to Allen Meadows, the world's leading authority on Burgundy at the members-only Terminal City Club. Both events will occur on September 18, so decide now and reserve your seat.

Here are the details.

Acid has gotten a bad rap. I’m not taking hallucinogenic drugs here, but the variety of acids you’ll find to a greater or lesser degree in all wines. The major acids are tartaric and malic. Malic can seem to be the sourer (think green apples), which is why winemakers in cool growing climates often put their wines — white, red and sparkling — through a secondary fermentation in the cellar called a malolactic conversion. The sharp malic acid is converted to the softer lactic acid (the acid in milk).

Think of the combination of these acids as creating the skeleton of the wine, the bones on which the flesh is hung. The flesh, in this case, is the fruit, so if you don’t have a firm frame on which to support the fruit, you’re going to experience a flabby wine that lacks structure.

The taste of a wine -- be it fruity, vegetal, floral — or tertiary flavours like coffee bean, chocolate, leather or soy — is carried by its acidity. It’s the acid that gives you the impression of length, which is what we all look for as a quality factor. And more importantly, acidity adds freshness and vitality to a wine, cleansing the palate and setting you up for another taste.

It’s the antithesis of the gourmet food industry — rich in artery-clogging fat globules, containing levels of sodium that would make even the salt flats of Nevada cry, mass-produced on a scale and with a speed never before imagined. It’s fast food. And it’s the food world’s Next Big Thing!

I’m sure that, right now, you’re thinking that I’ve been enjoying a little too much vino with my hash browns. Not so. Even I know that coffee, tea and juice are the best accompaniments to that breakfast staple. Just for a minute, stretch the imagination, and (more importantly) the definition of fast food. Think Portuguese barbecue. Think churrasqueira (shoo-rash-kay-ra). Fast food just got a makeover.

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