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It’s the antithesis of the gourmet food industry — rich in artery-clogging fat globules, containing levels of sodium that would make even the salt flats of Nevada cry, mass-produced on a scale and with a speed never before imagined. It’s fast food. And it’s the food world’s Next Big Thing!

I’m sure that, right now, you’re thinking that I’ve been enjoying a little too much vino with my hash browns. Not so. Even I know that coffee, tea and juice are the best accompaniments to that breakfast staple. Just for a minute, stretch the imagination, and (more importantly) the definition of fast food. Think Portuguese barbecue. Think churrasqueira (shoo-rash-kay-ra). Fast food just got a makeover.

There are two types of oyster eaters — people who like the occasional oyster, and bona fide oyster fanatics. If you’re not sure, I know a failsafe way to tell which camp you belong to. Day-trippers call the liquid inside the oyster “juice,” and they care no more for it than the water found in a can of tuna — spilling it when they shuck the shell and disregarding it when they slurp the meat. But an oyster lover knows its true name: oyster liquor. They treasure it like liquid gold. An oyster eaten without its liquor is — as the Good Book says — like salt that’s lost its savour; good for nothing and trodden under the foot of men.

“Liquor” is the perfect name, not only because it’s a distilled essence that captures the flavour of the sea, but also because it’s intoxicating and aphrodisiacal. Perhaps it is this fact that led me to venture some strange experiments at my last dinner party. I started infusing cocktails with oyster liquor. It may sound ill advised, but the iconic Canadian cocktail is the Bloody Caesar and that is made with clam juice, which has a much stronger taste and fishier smell than oyster liquor.

At one stage in a life of experimentation with ordinary kitchen objects, I made a still. Using nothing more than a pressure cooker, a length of copper tubing, cold running water in the sink, and a heady mash of fermenting fruit, I produced some intensely powerful alcohol that burned with a blue flame, filled the house with a fine cognac nose, and — please kids, don’t try this at home! — made a pretty decent drink. There were no arrests.

Another time, having been charmed by brochures about the terroir that produces it — “See the Dazzling Fall Colours of Eastern Canada through the Windows of Your Bus!” — and the sugar-soaked lore that surrounds it, I drilled a hole in the trunk of a tall backyard maple in Vancouver in an attempt to extract its upwardly mobile sap. It was liquid that I hoped might eventually lead to a bottle or three of home-grown maple syrup. Unfortunately, it led to nothing. Like Watusi warriors who tap their cattle for blood, and ants that defend aphids in exchange for their honeydew, entrepreneurs in the West have had some success with this tree-milking thing. But all the icons of Canadiana drawn from gathering maple sap in the last of winter — the sugar bushes, cabanes à sucre and frozen backsides of harvesters — are things that seem to be peculiar to Eastern Canada and the Northeastern United States. And bless ‘em all for their frigid

What makes us Canadian?Tidings_July_10_cover

This July/August issue is always one of the toughest to put together. The staff ponders while trying to put their finger on what we can define as Canadian. The simpler things come up first — local wines and personalities. But as fast as the ideas might come, the clichés are right around the corner.

Items with ice are brought up. Seafood and corn obviously. What about a retrospective on grains? Maybe even whisky. You see it is hard to define us. Maple syrup, beaver tails and apples. See even when I am making an effort to avoid them, I wrap my sentences up with these clichés. In an attempt to help us define not only our culinary culture, let alone our customs and traditions, I’d like to ask you a question. What makes us Canadian?

Let us know what you think is Canadian food; what defines our cuisine? What do you really think about local wine? Do we love to hate our creations? What is your favourite Canadian book and who is the best personality?

They’re legends in their own right, you’ve seen them on TV, they forge new culinary ground and they’re masters of their own edible domain. So how do these icons of culinary celebrity feel about wine?

“I probably drink more wine than the average guy, and know less about it than I think I do,” says the chef that is larger than the average guy. This is Chef Michael Smith, host of Chef at Home and Chef at Large, both the highest-rated Canadian series on the Food Network. His latest series, Chef Abroad, embraces wine as part of a polished lifestyle.

The first time Smith’s head was turned by wine was at Mission Hill Winery while with an old friend, Chef Michael Allemeier, and a bottle Oculus. “I was simply hanging out with an old buddy, casually, perhaps not the formal occasion that one figures such a wine commands,” reminisces Smith. He was impressed with the wine’s depth of character, and it changed his perception of the possibilities of Canadian wines. “I now think it’s one of the top three wines in the country.”

(with apologies to Joseph Conrad)

Ah, the dolce vita of the gastro-journo. Far-flung ports of call. Exotic delicacies. Rare and copious libations. But it’s not all cake and ice cream. Sometimes these “tours of duty” can be downright harrowing.

Case in point: a while back we sent our intrepid Contributing Editor south to check out the Colombia Provoca food expo. Though we aren’t sadists per se at Tidings, we thought it would be fun to send a diabetic (who’d be toting vials and syringes) to a country that’s just a titch uppity when it comes to “medication” and surround him with food that would probably be way far off his diet plan. Upon his return he went AWOL, refusing to discuss the junket. Pointed questions only resulted in him crumbling to the ground, twitching and whimpering, “la hormiga, la hormiga!”

Recently we found his travel notes going for a song on eBay. His (at times incoherent) dispatches reveal a twisted journey into a personal and professional heart of darkness. Though thoroughly edited for content (and modified from the original to fit this screen), sensitive readers are forewarned …Editor

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