| 08 March 2010
When I received the invitation to attend a Penfolds Re-corking Clinic in San Francisco hosted by Chief Winemaker Peter Gago, my first thought was, “cool, I get to taste a bunch of old vintages of Grange (Australia’s most famous and collectable wine whose current release commands $425+ per bottle).” But shortly after arriving, I realized that the clinic was going to be about so much more (although I did get to taste a bunch of old vintages of Grange).
The concept of the re-corking clinic is simple yet brilliant, and the ultimate in post-sales client service and public relations. Started in Australia in 1991, the clinics, lead by Penfolds’ senior winemaking team, have since hit the road to offer the service in various parts of the world. The purpose of the clinic is simple. Natural cork deteriorates over time (the average life being 20 to 25 years), and many of Penfolds wines, Grange in particular, have shown their longevity to be beyond that. What better service to offer your longstanding clients than to have a senior winemaker assess, and if necessary, open, taste, top-up, re-cork, re-capsule, and certify your wine on the spot? The only requirement is that the wine must be at least 15 years old (and a Penfolds product of course).
I had the good fortune to shadow Edwin Young, an ICU pediatric physician and quintessential southern gentleman, from North Carolina. Young is a generous bon vivant and avid collector of Penfolds Grange who clearly enjoys sharing as much as he enjoys consuming great wine and food. He brought six bottles of Grange to the clinic — 1989, ‘88, ‘86, ‘82, ‘81, and 1977, the oldest vintage in his cellar.
| 07 January 2010
There is no disputing the reign of Barolo and Barbaresco as the king and queen of Piedmont. They have captured the imagination, palate, and emotions of wine lovers everywhere. Both are comprised entirely from the noble, aromatic, alluring, and often fiercely tannic Nebbiolo grape.
But many people believe that Piedmont’s wine royalty starts and ends with Nebbiolo. Such is a mistake that would only serve to deprive one’s palate of the wonderful variety of bottles that this wine-and-food-centric region has to offer. From the grapey and soft Dolcetto to the multi-faceted Barbera to the light, flavourful and slightly fizzy Moscato, the wines of Piedmont are as diverse as the region’s cuisine (not a coincidence).
The concentration of Piedmont’s vineyards is quite remarkable, sharing the regional complexity of Burgundy — many small vineyards, scattered like a patchwork quilt. The region boasts more DOC zones than any other Italian region, and the subtle diversity of terroir must be tasted to be fully appreciated. Many oenophiles are obsessed by Barolo and Barbaresco, but an exploration of the varietals that follow (which is far from an all-inclusive list) will undoubtedly result in a lifelong love affair with the entire region.| 16 November 2009
Over the years, I’ve been pretty hard on the Chilean wine industry. There were (and are) just too many poorly made, mass produced wines that don’t take the country’s various microclimates and terroir into consideration.
When Chilean wines first entered the market 15 to 20 years ago, they sold well because they were cheap. Over time, the inferior quality of the wines resulted in a decline in sales. But things in Chile have changed dramatically and we are seeing a tremendous increase in quality.
One of the characters that historically made Chilean wines unpleasant was a vegetal, green pepper quality that was generally a sign of planting grapes in areas that were not well suited to specific varietals. But as vineyard managers and winemakers improved techniques and gained a better understanding of what grapes grow best in what areas, the quality of the resulting wines improved dramatically. This learned knowledge derived both from the maturation of the industry as well as from an influx of experience and technology from international enologists and agronomists.