| 26 August 2010
The Chilean wine industry is at a defining point in its evolution. Historically, Chile’s place in the wine world has largely been identified as a producer of inexpensive wine. This label served it well when first entering new markets in the 1990s, but producers have discovered recently that there is little consumer loyalty (or profitability) at the seven-to-nine-dollar price point. Australia, and now Argentina, have both eroded Chile’s market share for entry level wines, and, in general, the wines from these countries are more approachable and consumer friendly.
For years, Chilean producers ignored their greatest asset ... the country’s geography. It is only in the past 10 to 15 years that producers have started to identify the country’s diversity of soils and microclimates. And as vineyard managers and winemakers improved techniques and gained a better understanding of what grapes grow best in what areas, the quality of the resulting wines improved dramatically.| 08 July 2010
I’ve long extolled the virtues of the wines from the Adriatic-bordering, Italian region of Le Marche. The wines generally over-deliver in quality versus price. And while Le Marche might not have the cache of Tuscany, it’s for that very reason that this region is still able to offer wines at bargain deals compared to its Mediterranean big brother.
Neglected by tourists, Le Marche is sparsely populated, but one of Italy’s most serene and beautiful areas. The region is actually quite rural with a population of just over one million people, yet its largest city, Ancona, only claims 100,000 residents. That leaves the majority of the population living in small villages, medieval hilltop towns, and in the country. That country consists of beautiful rolling hills, vineyards, and pastures for raising cattle, sheep, and pigs.As good as the wines of Le Marche are, the food does not
| 08 March 2010
When I received the invitation to attend a Penfolds Re-corking Clinic in San Francisco hosted by Chief Winemaker Peter Gago, my first thought was, “cool, I get to taste a bunch of old vintages of Grange (Australia’s most famous and collectable wine whose current release commands $425+ per bottle).” But shortly after arriving, I realized that the clinic was going to be about so much more (although I did get to taste a bunch of old vintages of Grange).
The concept of the re-corking clinic is simple yet brilliant, and the ultimate in post-sales client service and public relations. Started in Australia in 1991, the clinics, lead by Penfolds’ senior winemaking team, have since hit the road to offer the service in various parts of the world. The purpose of the clinic is simple. Natural cork deteriorates over time (the average life being 20 to 25 years), and many of Penfolds wines, Grange in particular, have shown their longevity to be beyond that. What better service to offer your longstanding clients than to have a senior winemaker assess, and if necessary, open, taste, top-up, re-cork, re-capsule, and certify your wine on the spot? The only requirement is that the wine must be at least 15 years old (and a Penfolds product of course).
I had the good fortune to shadow Edwin Young, an ICU pediatric physician and quintessential southern gentleman, from North Carolina. Young is a generous bon vivant and avid collector of Penfolds Grange who clearly enjoys sharing as much as he enjoys consuming great wine and food. He brought six bottles of Grange to the clinic — 1989, ‘88, ‘86, ‘82, ‘81, and 1977, the oldest vintage in his cellar.