My friend John Ash, a great
writer who founded his own restaurant twenty-four years ago in
California’s Sonoma County, says that one of the simplest and best
ways to cook asparagus is to give it a light coating of olive oil and
grill it. Grilling, says John, brings out the sweetness and more of
the “vegetal” notes. It may also diminish that other
unmentionable asparagus attribute! Add some good olives, thinly
sliced prosciutto and maybe a sprinkling of fried capers for a
delicious antipasti course. Wine? I’m sure that John would suggest
a Russian River Sauvignon Blanc.